Wood Veneer Q & A

Wood Veneer Factory Outlet.com

 

Q.  How long does it take to learn how to use wood veneers?

A.  You can become a wood veneer craftsman in one hour or less!  Use our wood veneer sheets to create beautifully veneered furniture quickly and easily.  Even a child can learn veneering. Its that easy.  If you have no experience whatsoever with woodworking or craft work, you can become an accomplished veneer craftsman in an afternoon.  That’s just how easy it is to learn how to work with wood veneers!

Q.  How long have you been in business?

A.  We’ve been selling wood veneers since 1974.  Our wood veneers are used every day for everything from cub scout projects to home projects, to high end custom made furniture.  Our wood veneer sheets have been featured in magazines and woodworker’s books since 1974! 

Our wood veneers have been used in an oil sheik’s airplane, libraries, executive suites and for restoration projects in the world’s best museums.  We ship our wood veneers all over the world.

 

Q.  Are wood veneer sheets made of real wood?

A.  Yes, wood veneers are thin sheets of real wood.

 

Q.  How do I cut a wood veneer?

A.  You can cut wood veneers using a razor knife or a scissors.

 

Q.  What sizes do the wood veneer sheets come in?

A.  Most of the wood veneers that we sell come in 24” x 96” sizes and 48” x 96” sizes.  Some wood veneers sheets come in sizes all the way up to 5’ wide x 12’ long.

 

Q.  Are the 24” x 96” wood veneer sheets and the 48” x 96” wood veneer sheets made up using smaller components?

A.  Yes.  The individual components or “leaves” that make up the larger veneer sheets are usually 4” to 12” wide.  The leaves are book matched and spliced side by side to make up the finished sheet sizes.

 

Q.  Can I see the seams where the individual leaves of veneer are spliced side by side?

A.  Yes, but in nearly all cases, when we join the leaves side by side, we flip every other sheet. This gives a mirror image of the grain patterns along the seams where the individual leaves are joined.  This is called a book matched pattern.

 

Q.  What direction does the grain go on a sheet of veneer?

A.  The grain direction always goes in the direction of the second dimension.  Example:  The grain on a 24” x 96” sheet goes the 96” way.

  

Q.  How thick are the wood veneer sheets?

A.  Our paper backed veneer sheets  are about 1/64” thick overall.  Our wood backed (also called 2 ply) veneer sheets are about 3/64” thick overall.

 

Q.  What is a paper backed veneer?

A.  A paper backed veneer is a wood veneer sheet that has a paper backer.  The paper backer adds strength and stability.  Most paper backed veneers are about 1/64” thick overall.

Do not use lacquer or penetrating finishes on paper backed veneers that have been glued down with contact cement.  Reason: Lacquers and penetrating finishes can penetrate through the paper backed veneers and attack the contact cement.  This warning does not apply to shellac finishes or to varnish finishes.  This warning does not apply to wood backed veneers which are impervious to bleed through of the finish to the glue layer

 

Q.  What is a wood backed veneer?

A.  A Wood backed veneer (also called 2 ply veneer)  is a wood veneer sheet that has a wood veneer backer.  The wood veneer backer adds strength and stability and it helps to prevent telegraphing of defects through from the substrate.  Most wood backed veneers are about 3/64” thick overall. 

 

Q.  What is better, a wood backed veneer or a paper backed veneer?

A.  We like the wood backed veneers best unless you need the flexibility of the paper backed veneer.  Wood backed veneers are generally easier to work with and they are more forgiving. 

 

Q.  What is a peel and stick wood veneer?

A.  A peel and stick wood veneer sheet is a wood veneer that comes with a 3M pressure sensitive adhesive.  You peel off the release paper and stick the veneer sheet down.  The surface that you stick the veneer down to must be clean and free of dirt and dust.  Do not stick the veneer sheet directly to a raw wooden surface.  We recommend that you apply a couple of coats of varnish or paint to a raw wooden surface, let dry.  Then, stick the veneer down to the prepared surface.

 

Q.  Will a peel and stick veneer stick to vinyl, Formica, paper, or shiny surfaces? 

A. Yes, but you must prepare the surface properly.  Surfaces that are shiny or smooth, such as Formica, should be scuff sanded first.  If the surface is paper, such as imitation wood grain, you should paint or varnish the paper surface with a couple of coats.  Let dry.  Then apply the peel and stick veneer.

 

Q.  Can the 3M adhesive on a peel and stick veneer be damaged or loosened by a finish that seeps through to the glue layer?

A.  The 3M peel and stick adhesive is nearly impervious to damage by a finish that seeps through to the glue layer.

 

Q.  Can the wood backed veneers be ordered with the 3M peel and stick adhesive?

A.  Yes, the wood backed veneers can be ordered with or without the 3M peel and stick adhesive.

 

Q.  Can the paper backed veneers be ordered with the 3M peel and stick adhesive?

A.  Yes, the paper backed veneer sheets can be ordered with or without the 3M peel and stick adhesive.

 

Q.  How do I glue a wood veneer down?

A.  The 3 most common ways to glue wood veneers down are:  1.) Woodworker’s glue, such as Titebond 2, and clamps,  2.) contact cement   3.) use our 3M peel and stick veneers and stick them right down.

There are other ways, such as the use of a veneer press, a vacuum bag, or heat activated glues.  Most of our customers use contact cement or the 3M peel and stick veneers that we sell.

 

Q.  What’s the best contact cement to use for gluing wood veneers?

A.  We recommend that you use a solvent based contact cement.  We don’t like the water based contact cements.  Get the best solvent based contact cement that you can find.  The higher the  “solid”content (rubbers)  the better.  The extra money that you spend for the highest quality contact cement is well worth the cost.  Two of the best brands are Better Bond Titan Dx and Dural, but you may not be able to find them in your local home center.  Note: some contact cements come in a spray can and, generally speaking, we advise that you steer clear of them.

Do not use lacquer or penetrating finishes on paper backed veneers that have been glued down with contact cement.  Reason: Lacquers and penetrating finishes can penetrate through the paper backed veneers and attack the contact cement.  This warning does not apply to shellac finishes or to varnish finishes.  This warning does not apply to wood backed veneers which are impervious to bleed through of the finish to the glue layer.

 

Q. How do I use contact cement to glue a wood veneer sheet down? 

A.  Use 2 coats on back side of the veneer sheet and 2 coats on the substrate.   Use a brush, roller, or a wide blade putty knife.  Apply the coat as evenly and smoothly as you can.   Allow the first coat to dry before applying the second coat.  Work in a well ventilated area that is at least 60 degrees F and isn’t humid.  When the second coats are dry, stick the wood veneer down to the substrate and apply pressure with a 1” wide blunt piece of wood or a 1” wide wallpaper seam roller to help the contact cement to make a good bond.

Do not use lacquer or penetrating finishes on paper backed veneers that have been glued down with contact cement.  Reason: Lacquers and penetrating finishes can penetrate through the paper backed veneers and attack the contact cement.  This warning does not apply to shellac finishes or varnishes.  This warning does not apply to wood backed veneers which are impervious to bleed through of the finish to the glue layer.

 

Q.  How do I glue wood veneer using woodworker’s glue?

A.  Gluing wood veneers with woodworker’s glue is easy on small areas that can be clamped down tight.  Larger areas that are difficult to clamp are problematic.  (That’s why most people use contact cement instead of woodworker’s glue). 

Here are the basics:  Apply a thin, even coat of glue to the substrate and a thin, even coat of glue to the wood veneer.  Position the wood veneer sheet in place and place a flat board on top.  Use clamps to apply even pressure all over everywhere while the glue dries.  Pressure is the key.  You must get good pressure everywhere.  Hint: Sometimes it’s a good idea to place a piece of waxed paper between the flat board and the veneer in case you get some glue squeeze out.

 

Q.  Can woodworker’s glue (eg:  Titebond, Elmer’s,  etc.)   be damaged or loosened by a finish that seeps through to the glue layer?

A.  No. 

 

Q.  How is the veneer shipped to me?

A.  We roll the veneer sheets up and ship them in a box.  If necessary, we can ship in a crate, by truck, for large orders.

 

Q.  Can you finish a wood veneer the same way that you finish solid wood?

A.  Yes!  You apply a finish to wood veneer the same way that you apply a finish to a wooden surface……Because……wood veneers ARE real wood.  You can use wax, stain, varnish, shellac, lacquer, or any other finish just the same way that you normally would use them on any wooden surface.

Do not use lacquer or penetrating finishes on paper backed veneers that have been glued down with contact cement.  Reason: Lacquers and penetrating finishes can penetrate through the paper backed veneers and attack the contact cement.  This warning does not apply to shellac finishes or varnish finishes.  This warning does not apply to wood backed veneers which are impervious to bleed through of the finish to the glue layer.

 

Q.  What’s the best all around choice for a finish to be used on wood veneers?

A.  It depends on your own preferences and it depends on what your specific needs are.  For a quick and easy finish, you can use wax.  For a quick and easy finish that protects the wood reasonably well, you can use shellac or lacquer.  If you are looking for a super protective finish, you might use high tech catalytic varnishes and finishes.  Our choice for a good, all around finish that’s fairly easy to apply, is durable, and gives good protection to the wood veneer is polyurethane varnish.

Do not use lacquer or penetrating finishes on paper backed veneers that have been glued down with contact cement.  Reason: Lacquers and penetrating finishes can penetrate through the paper backed veneers and attack the contact cement.  This warning does not apply to shellac finishes or varnish finishes.  This  warning does not apply to wood backed veneers which are impervious to bleed through of the finish to the glue layer.

 

Q.  Is a water based varnish or a petroleum based varnish best for wood veneers?

A.  The water based polyurethane varnishes are real easy to use on wood veneers,  have no fumes, and you use water for your clean up.  Water based polyurethane varnishes are a reasonable choice for these reasons.  The water based varnishes have a drawback, however:  They don’t give the luster that a petroleum based varnish will give.

Don’t apply heavy coats of a water based finish to your wood veneer,  as this could possibly cause the wood veneer to swell.

When it comes to varnishes, we prefer the petroleum based varnishes because they impart a richer tone to the finished look of your veneered project.  The petroleum based varnishes take longer to dry and the cleanup is more difficult.  The petroleum based varnishes must be applied in a well ventilated area because of the fumes.

 

Q.  Are there any finishes that you do not recommend for wood veneers?

A.  No.  However, we don’t like wax finishes and we have reservations about the typical off the shelf shellacs and lacquers.

Do not use lacquer or penetrating finishes on paper backed veneers that have been glued down with contact cement.  Reason: Lacquers and penetrating finishes can penetrate through the paper backed veneers and attack the contact cement.  This warning does not apply to shellac finishes or to varnish finishes.  This warning does not apply to wood backed veneers which are impervious to bleed through of the finish to the glue layer. 

 

Q.  Are wood veneer sheets bendable?

A.  Yes, wood veneer sheets are bendable - to a degree.  The paper backed wood veneers are extremely flexible “with” the grain and fairly flexible “against” the grain.  The wood backed veneers are fairly flexible with the grain and somewhat flexible against the grain. 

 

Q.  Can I glue a wood veneer to a curved surface?

A.  Yes, but gluing to curved surfaces usually requires more skill and knowledge than most beginners will have.  For example, you can glue a paper backed veneer to a tight radius, against the grain, but only if you use a good woodworker’s glue and only if you can clamp the veneer down while the glue dries.

 

Q.  Can I sand a wood veneer?

A.  Yes, you can sand a wood veneer, but most of the veneers that we sell are sanded at the factory and further sanding probably isn’t necessary.  ( Exception: A few of our fancy veneer faces of burls, crotches, and stumps  do require sanding by you.)

 

Q.  How easy is it to sand through the veneered surface?

A.  Not as easy as you might think!  The wood veneers are thin, but most people are surprised at how much sanding a veneered surface can take before it sands through. 

 

Q.  How do I get an exact fit of the veneer on the surface that I’m veneering?

A.  Cut your veneer sheet to ½” or so oversized on all sides.  Glue it down.  Trim through from the back side using a razor knife.

Inset panels are more difficult.  If you use woodworker’s glue, you can position your veneer easily and then clamp it in place.  If you are using peel and stick veneers or if you are gluing with contact cement you will need to position the veneer exactly in place.

 

Q.  Should I apply a wood veneer to both sides of my work piece?

A.  Yes, but most people don’t do this and they usually get away with it.  The reason for applying wood veneer sheets to both sides of your substrate is that it keeps the stresses in the substrate equalized.  This helps to prevent warping.  It is okay to apply a  less expensive veneer to the back side of the substrate. If your veneered surface is fastened down, such as a table top, there is probably less of a need to apply veneer to the underneath side. 

 

Q.  Can I apply a new wood veneer to a surface that is already veneered?

A.  Yes, so long as the surface is viable, clean and free of dirt and oil, and so long as it is prepped according to the instructions stated herein.

 

Q.  How can I remove old or damaged veneer?

A.  Apply heat with an iron using a wet towel.  Use a putty knife to get underneath the veneer to pry it loose.

 

Q.  How can I repair gouges and holes in a surface that I want to veneer?

A.  Use wood putty or Bondo (available at automotive stores).  Sand smooth.  Apply 2 or 3 coats of varnish or paint.

 

Q.  What does “F/C” mean?

A.  F/C (flat cut) is a cutting method that produces moving grains and cathedral grains in the surface of the veneer.  This is the most popular method that is used to slice veneers off of the face of a log.

 

Q.  What does “Q/C’ mean?

A.  Q/C (quarter cut) is a cutting method that produces comb grains or parallel grains that are straight and uniform.

 

Q.  What does “Ribbon” mean?

A.  Ribbon grains are produced when wood veneer is sliced from a log using the Q/C method.  Ribbon grains are often present in Q/C Mahogany.  The narrow, parallel grains in Mahogany that has been sliced using the Q/C method often look like ribbon patterns.

 

Q.  What does “Rift” mean?

A.  Rift (rift cut) is a cutting method that produces comb grains and parallel grains, similar to Q/C (quarter cut).

 

Q.  What is “Tiger Oak” and what is “Flake” ? 

A. Tiger oak describes a particular  grain pattern of rift cut oak or quarter cut oak.  Tiger oak was used extensively for furniture in the early 20^th century.  The grain patterns of tiger oak exhibit “Flake” which can often resemble the stripes of a tiger.  Flake grains range from narrow and delicate  to wide and bold, and from stripes to flecks to corn flakes.

 

Q.  What does “Figured” mean?

A.  Figure is a characteristic of the veneer that gives a shimmering, glowing, dancing effect.  Figure is most obvious when the light hits the wood surface at different angles.  “Curly” and “Fiddleback” are specific types of figured veneer.

 

Bob Morgan, Pres.

Wood Veneer Factory Outlet.com